Maintaining Your Beautiful Pool Year-Round
Routine maintenance helps keep your pool and spa system operating safely and efficiently. Proper water balance is the single most important factor to maximizing the life and appearance of any swimming pool. The following table shows ranges for basic water chemistry:
Chemicals and Maintenance Equipment
Backyard Living Inc carries a full line of chemicals for your pool and spa, as well as maintenance equipment and supplies!
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us today for all your pool and maintenance needs.
Pool Safety
Follow a regular check-off procedure during the pool season. Here is a link to a "Playing It Safe" guide that might be helpful:
Knowing and following safety guidelines will help everyone enjoy their leisure hours safely. Below is basic information on general pool safety as well as pool equipment and maintenance safety tips.
Chemical Safety
- ALWAYS READ AND FOLLOW THE MANUFACTURER'S INSTRUCTIONS ON ALL PACKAGING CAREFULLY TO ENSURE SAFE HANDLING AND STORAGE OF CHEMICALS.
- Read and follow the manufacturer's instructions on all packaging carefully. Be familiar with emergency procedures, so that in the event of a chemical spill or accident, you will be able to act quickly.
- Storing chemicals:
- Keep chemicals out of the reach of children and pets.
- Store in a cool, dry place out of direct sunlight.
- Store in their original containers. Do not use contents of unlabeled containers.
- Containers should always be kept closed when not in use.
- Be sure storage area is well ventilated.
- Never store oxidizers and acid near each other. Oxidizers will release chlorine gas if they come in contact with acids.
- Do not store liquids above powders or solids. Do not stack containers.
- Do not store materials or chemicals above your head.
- Do not store pool chemicals near gasoline, fertilizers, herbicides, grease, paints, tile cleaners, turpentine, or flammable materials. This tip is especially important when pool chemicals are stored in sheds or small storage rooms.
- Do not reuse containers.
- Handling chemicals:
- Always read and follow the chemical’s instructions to ensure safe use of chemicals.
- Wear appropriate protective equipment and clothing including gloves, footwear, and eyewear.
- Handle chemicals in a well-ventilated area.
- Use separate, clean metal or plastic measuring cups for each chemical to transfer or measure chemicals. Never use wood scoops.
- Protect chemicals from moisture and water—such as a cup of water or coffee. Even putting the wet scoop back in the pail may cause a reaction.
- When applicable, always dilute chemicals by adding to water, never the other way around, unless the container’s label instructs you to do so.
- Do not mix different chemicals together.
- Do not put spilled chemicals back into their containers.
- Do not smoke when handling chemicals.
- Do not expose to heat or flames.
- IN CASE OF EMERGENCY:
- Eyes: If you get any chemicals in your eyes, flush them immediately with water for 15 minutes, and get immediate medical attention. See instructions on the chemical packaging.
- Skin: If you get any chemicals on your skin, flush them immediately with water, and get immediate medical attention.
- Inhalation: If you have a burning sensation in your nose or throat, feel dizzy, nauseous or vomit, and/or have difficulty breathing while handling chemicals or after handling chemicals, get fresh air immediately, and get immediate medical attention.
- Ingestion: If any pool chemicals are swallowed, call the poison center immediately. Do not induce vomiting unless instructed.
- Fire: If a fire breaks out, do not use a "dry chemical" fire extinguisher. Only use large amounts of water. If you can’t extinguish the flame immediately, leave the area, and call the fire department.
- Chemical spills: Immediately clean up any chemical spills according to manufacturer’s directions. If a violent reaction has occurred, contact the fire department immediately, and they will instruct you on steps to take until their arrival, if any.
Pump Suction
- Stay off the main drain!
- Your circulating pump creates a strong vacuum at the main drain at the bottom of your pool. In fact the suction is so strong, it can trap adults or children underwater.
- We recommend removal of the automatic pool cleaner when swimming.
- Read the cleaner or vacuum owner's manual for safe operating information.
- Make sure your pool or spa has the following:
- An emergency shut-off switch for the pool circulation pump and the spa jet pump in an easily accessible, obvious place near the pool or spa. Make sure bathers know where it is, and how to use it in case of emergency.
- At least two suction outlets from the pool to the main circulating pump.
- Either one of these outlets should be able to supply the pump by itself without exceeding the flow rating of its cover. (Many aboveground pools use the skimmer as the suction outlet, and have no main drain; these pools don’t require a second suction outlet.)
- Each outlet must have a cover fastened down with screws, be designed so that they won’t trap body parts or hair, and be certified by a nationally recognized testing laboratory.
- Plastic deck and drain covers may deteriorate, and crack or break from exposure to sunlight or weather. Routinely replace them every 3-4 years
Routine Maintenance
Routine maintenance helps keep your pool and spa system operating safely and efficiently. Follow a regular check-off procedure for the safety related items, and have your pool professional perform the following tasks regularly:
- Make sure that each suction outlet has a cover that is installed correctly, screwed down, unbroken, and certified for that application.
- Make sure that all skimmer covers are in place, screw-fastened, and unbroken.
- Make sure that the filter pressure gauge is in good working condition, and that the filter pressure is within the operating range specified in your filter owner’s manual.
- Make sure that the pump and filter O-rings are sealing properly and in good condition.
- Bleed off accumulated air from the system, as described in your owner’s manual.
- Empty the skimmer baskets and the pump strainer basket of debris.
- Remove any debris or obstructions from the main drain cover.
- Remove obstructions and combustibles from around the pump motor air vents and heater top vents.
- Make sure all chemicals are properly stored (away from equipment).
- Make sure the heater is functioning properly.
- Make sure there is no gas smell around the heater.
- Make sure all grounding and bonding wires are connected and in good condition.
- Make sure all wiring connections are tight and clean, and all wiring and electrical equipment are in good condition.
Gas and Propane
LP gas (propane) and natural gas are safe as long as they are used correctly. But if used incorrectly, they can cause a fire, explosion, or asphyxiation. Make sure to follow these safety precautions:
- Always use a trained technician for installation, service, or repair of your gas heater. Have your installer verify these points at installation
- Make sure there is no leakage of exhaust gases into any building. Improper, damaged, or rusted-out venting can cause serious injuries, illness, or death from carbon monoxide poisoning.
- Make sure your installation meets all local and national codes.
- If you suspect a gas leak or smell gas, immediately clear the area, and call the gas company from a telephone away from the area of the suspected leak.
Electrical
Use of any electrical equipment such as underwater lights, deck lights, the pool pump, or any other accessory can pose a safety threat to people in the water if the wiring is incorrect or faulty. Use the following safety precautions to avoid electrocution or electrical shock:
- Always use a trained technician for installation, service, or repair of any electrical wiring or equipment. Have your technician verify these points.
- Use ground fault circuit interrupters (GFCI) for the power supply circuit for each piece of electrical equipment, including utility pumps to drain the pool water. The GFCI will disconnect the power supply if any electricity leaks are detected.
- Make sure your installation meets all local and national codes.
- Make sure all electrical equipment is grounded and all metal objects (ladders, diving platforms, etc.) are electrically bonded together.
- Never use extension cords around a pool or spa.
- Never enter the water when a utility pump is running.
- Never put an aluminum vacuum handle into the pool.
- Never swim in your pool or spa during an electrical storm.
Pool Tips
The following tips will help make operating, maintaining, and enjoying your pool easier and less confusing.
Chemical Tips
Chlorine
- To maintain the proper level of residual chlorine when bather load is heavy, shock your pool once a week with a 3 to 5 times higher than normal dose of chlorine. Do not enter the pool until the chemical level is normalized.
- Chlorine is broken down by the sun's ultraviolet rays. Using cyanuric acid to stabilize the chlorine in your pool at the beginning of the swim season will help you maximize your chlorine's efficiency all summer long.
- Filters remove suspended particles from pool water but don't control bacteria or algae. Maintain a residual chlorine level of 1.0-3.0 ppm (parts per million) to kill bacteria and/or algae present in the water.
PH Level
- The ideal pH for pool water is 7.5. A pH range of 7.4-7.6 and is considered acceptable.
- Maintaining a total alkalinity (T.A.) range from 80-120 ppm (parts per million) will help minimize changes in pH, which can result in scaling and corrosion. Frequent testing can help prevent these problems before they get out of hand.
Quality
- To ensure accurate readings, replace test kit reagents annually.
- To ensure the highest water quality, test your pool's pH and free chlorine levels daily, adding chemicals as needed.
- Proper chemical usage is important for maintaining a healthy pool. Be sure to follow the chemical manufacturer's instructions closely regarding proper dosage for your size pool.
- Add an algaecide and chlorine to your pool before covering it for the winter. It will ensure that the water is clear and algae-free when you reopen it the following season.
Cleaning Tips
Debris
- When preparing to open your pool for the season, clean all leaves and other debris off the cover before removing it.
- Empty your skimmer baskets frequently. You'll help minimize the amount of leaves that end up on the bottom of your pool.
- When cleaning the surface of your pool with a leaf net, work your way around the sides first, then clean from the middle of the pool to the sides.
- Empty your leaf net occasionally when cleaning your pool's surface. Otherwise, the net's contents may accidentally end up back in the pool.
- Keep the trees and shrubs around your pool trimmed back to minimize the amount of leaves and debris that end up in the pool.
Water Clarity
- When opening your pool at the beginning of the season, run your filter around the clock until the water is completely clear.
- If your pool water appears green or has an unpleasant odor, the problem is probably caused by algae. Test for proper chlorine level, and consult a pool professional if the problem persists.
- Keep your filter, pump, lint trap, and skimmer baskets clean and in proper working condition to help ensure that your pool water stays sparkling clear.
- Pool inlets should be adjusted so the surface water is moving in a circular direction.
- Make a habit of checking and emptying skimmer and pump baskets regularly.
Energy Conservation
Heating and Heat Loss
- Reduce heat loss by using a pool cover. According to the U.S. Department of Energy, savings of 50% - 70% are possible.
- Fencing, hedges, landscaping, and cabanas that shelter your pool from prevailing winds will further reduce heat loss.
- If your pool heater is more than five years old, chances are a new high efficiency gas heater could quickly pay for itself in utility bill savings.
- A pool heat pump can save up to 80% in energy usage compared to a gas heater. Check with your pool professional to see if a heat pump is appropriate for your region.
- If you use your pool only on weekends, reduce your heater or heat pump thermostats settings by eight to ten degrees during the week.
- When leaving for vacation for more than a week, turn off the pool heater or heat pump, including the pilot light. Please use caution in freezing conditions.
- According to the National Swimming Pool Institute and the American Red Cross, the most healthful swimming temperature is 78 degrees. Reducing your heater or heat pump thermostat to maintain a 78-degree or lower temperature will also help conserve energy.
- Install a timer or a control system to automate the hours of operation.
- When reopening your pool, make sure your heater or heat pump is working properly.
Circulation
- Replace your pool pump with a more energy-efficient model.
- New variable speed pumps with permanent magnet motors and digital controls can save as much as 90% in utility costs compared to one- or two-speed pumps with induction motors.
- If using an energy-efficient one- or two-speed pump, make sure your pump is sized to your pool's requirements.
- Reduce run time or speed to reduce energy use.
- If using a one-speed pump, reduce filtration run time. In general, water needs to be circulated through the filter once every 24 hours.
- If using a two-speed or variable speed pump, use the lowest speed to appropriately circulate the water. Reducing speed saves more energy than reducing run time.
- Run your pool's filtration system during off-peak hours when electricity demand is lower, generally between 8 pm and 10 am Install a timer or a control system to automate the hours of operation.
- Keep intake grates clear of debris. Clogged drains require the pump to work harder.
- To obtain maximum filtration and energy efficiency, backwash or clean your filter regularly, as required.
Equipment Tips
Cleaners
- An automatic pool cleaner will dramatically reduce the time spent on weekly maintenance.
- If you fill your pool with well water, you'll need to add a metal remover.
Filters
- When cleaning cartridge filters, soak them in a cleaning solution for 24 hours, then hose them off before reinstalling.
- D.E. filters should be disassembled and cleaned at least once per season.
- If your sand filter is 3-5 years old, ask your pool professional if it's time to replace the sand.
- If your filter pressure gauge indicates that pressure has dropped below the normal reading for a clean filter, check to see if you have a clogged pump or skimmer basket.
- Clean your sand or D.E. filters when you close your pool for the season.
- To obtain maximum filtration and energy efficiency, backwash or clean your filter regularly, as required.
Gaskets, O-Rings, and Rubber Fittings
- If your pool has a deck-mounted junction box, check the condition of the gaskets regularly and replace as needed to make sure the box cannot be penetrated by water.
- When closing your pool for the season, coat all accessible O-rings, rubber fittings, and gaskets with a silicone O-ring lube to keep them from drying out.
Heaters
To maintain your heater's efficiency, follow a regular program of preventive maintenance, including annual inspection and de-liming of the heat exchanger when necessary.
Lighting
The addition of fiber optic or automated color-changing lighting can dramatically enhance your nighttime pool enjoyment.
Pumps
- Turn the pool pump off before operating the multi-port valve.
- If your pump starts running louder or making unusual noises, shut it off, and contact your pool professional.
- Make a habit of checking and emptying skimmer and pump baskets regularly.
Skimmers
- Check to make sure the skimmer weir is in place and is moving freely.
- Make a habit of checking and emptying skimmer and pump baskets regularly.
Water Conservation
- Check for cracks and leaks around your pool, spa, and equipment.
- A leaky pool can waste over 100,000 gallons per year! Monitor your pool closely, and consult your pool professional if you suspect a leak. Some signs of leaking to look for are:
- If your pool water level is going down more than 1/4" per day, there could possibly be a leak.
- Loose tiles or cracks in the pool deck may be an indication of a leaking pool.
- Cracks and gaps in the bond beam may be an indication that your pool is leaking.
- If you notice water-saturated soils in the area around the pool, pool pumps, or plumbing, your pool may be leaking.
- If you see bubbles in the return water when the pool's pump is running, it's likely there's a leak in the suction side of the filtration system.
- Install and use a pool cover.
- The average uncovered pool loses one inch of water per week. Covering your pool can save up to 30-40% of water lost to evaporation.
- Lower the pool water temperature when not being used.
- Reducing the temperature also reduces water loss to evaporation.
- Plant a windbreak.
- Wind blowing across the surface of the pool causes additional evaporation. A windbreak can help you conserve water as well as energy costs.
- Lower the pool water level to reduce losses from splashing.
- Maintain your pool water level one inch above the bottom of the tile.
- Keep your filters clean to prevent backwashing.
- The average backwash uses between 250 to 1,000 gallons of water.
- Backwash only when necessary.
- Run filter backwash onto lawns and shrubs or collect for reuse
- Ensure that water is absorbed before it leaves your property and avoid allowing runoff to enter adjacent properties.
Water Level Pool Tips
- Maintain your pool water level halfway up the skimmer box opening.
- A pool may typically lose a minimal amount of water each day (no more than ¼ inch) due to evaporation and/or splash out. If your pool is losing more water than that, there could possibly be a leak. Monitor closely and consult your pool professional if you suspect a leak.
- Loose tiles or cracks in the pool deck may be an indication of a leaking pool.
- Cracks and gaps in the bond beam may be an indication that your pool is leaking.
- If you notice water-saturated soil in the area around the pool, pool pumps, or plumbing, your pool may be leaking.
- If you see bubbles in the return water when the pool's pump is running, it's likely there's a leak in the suction side of the filtration system.
FAQs
My Water Is Cloudy
First test the water to make sure it is properly balanced, and adjust if needed. The problem could be poor filtration and circulation, check the pump and filter, clean if necessary. It could also be that you need to use a chlorine or non-chlorine shock. If all is good, using a clarifier may be all that you need.
There Is a Strong Odor
First test the water to make sure it is properly balanced and adjust if needed. If the chloramines are too high, shock your water with chlorine.
My Liner Is Wrinkling
The problem is the water is not properly balanced, the PH and or Alkalinity is too low. Keep your water balanced, and be prepared to replace your liner soon.
Why Is My Hair Green
There is too much copper in the water. Use stain and scale control, this will remove the metals in the water.
Understanding Your Water Chemistry
Balancing your water:
- pH: pH is a measure of how acidic or basic the water is. Proper pH range helps protect equipment, allows the chemical products to work more efficiently, and makes the water comfortable. If too low, it will etch plaster or wrinkle vinyl liners, corrode equipment, and metal accessories.
You'll notice chlorine residual loss, formation of chloramines, and skin and eye irritation. If too high, the water will be cloudy, there will be a tendency for scale to form and poor chlorine residual efficiency.
- Total Alkalinity: Alkalinity functions as a buffer to help keep pH in the proper range. If too high, you may have staining, scale, and difficulty in adjusting pH. If it's too low, there is corrosion and pH bounce.
- Calcium Hardness: This is a measure of calcium and magnesium content of the water. If too little is present, the water will attack the materials of construction to satisfy its appetite. Treatment will prevent etching, pitting, and corrosion of surfaces and metallic components. If too much hardness is present, scaling will occur, and the water could turn cloudy.
- Stain Preventers: Many water sources, especially wells, contain metals such as iron, copper, and manganese. A Stain Ban will prevent staining and take out the metal level in your pool.
Chlorine - Free, Combined, and Total:
- Free: Available chlorine is that which is active, not combined with an ammonia or a nitrogen molecule, and ready to react to destroy organic materials. It is essential to maintain a free-chlorine residual at all times to achieve clear and sanitary water.
- Combined: That portion of total available chlorine left over when free available is subtracted. When free chlorine molecules encounter and destroy a nitrogen or ammonia containing compound or a chloramine, the chloramine is no longer available to sanitize anything, and it floats in the water blocking the path of the free chlorine molecules. This can cause strong aroma of chlorine in and around the pool.
- Total Chlorine: Is the sum of combined and free chlorine levels. The difference, if any, is the level of combined chlorine.
- Cyanuric Acid (Stabilizer): Is a chemical added to the pool water which provides a shield to chlorine for protection from UV radiation, which disrupts the molecule, destroying its ability. This allows the chlorine to hold its residual in the water to kill bacteria and reduce chemical use.
Shocking Your Pool
Shocking is done by raising chlorine levels 10 times the level of chloramines, a
threshold is reached called "Breakpoint" chlorination. When this is reached, something of a "shock", or lightnng bolt, rips through the water, slashing and burning everything in its path.
You should shock the pool when combined chlorine levels reach .3ppm, after a party, if the water is hazy, if your chlorine tablets got too low, if you notice a strong chlorine smell, or eyes are burning.
You should also shock once every couple of weeks whether it needs it or not. If it's been very hot and sunny, or the pool is being used more than typically, you may also need to shock more often. Check your pH levels before you shock.
Large doses of chlorine, in the way of shocking, are also very effective when algae
has turned the water or walls a yellow or green color.
Non-chlorine shock is a granular form of potassium permonosulfate. A non-
chlorine shock will destroy chloramines and other contaminants and restores water
clarity. Non-chlorine shock is also used to "free" up your free chlorine that is blocked by contaminants.
Superchlorination is applying 7-10 times the normal amounts of chlorine to the pool as an added "boost" for contaminant removal. Some refer to superchlorination as being less than shocking, in that at the "breakpoint" thresholds are not reached.
Nitrogen: When combined with chlorine, nitrogen creates chloramines, which do not belong in your pool. Nitrogen can be found in many swimmer wastes (perspiration, suntan oil, hair tonics, etc.)
Oxidation: The "burning up" of organic waste and compounds in the pool water. It also refers to what you may see on your metal pool surfaces if your water is corrosive. Rust is a form of this type of oxidation.
Algae (What Causes Algae Problems)
Every pool owner has, at one time or another, done battle with algae. Algae
spores constantly enter the pool, brought by wind, rain, or even contaminated swimsuits or equipment. When conditions are right, an algae bloom can occur over night.
These conditions include out of balance water, warm temperatures, sunlight, and the presence of nitrates and/or carbon dioxide. Lack of proper circulation, filtration, and sanitation are the primary causes of algae.
How to Kill Algae
Balance your water, paying attention to pH. Check your filter system and clean
if
necessary. Brush the walls and floor of the pool, this will break the algae off and will allow it to be killed. Add an algaecide and 4 gallons of liquid chlorine to every 10,000 gallons of water, ALL AT THE SAME TIME!
Run filter continuously. After 24 hours, you should notice that the pool is either clearing or crystal clear. Remove settled algae and vacuum to waste. In some cases, more than one dose is needed.
Phosphates
Phosphates feed algae which destroys chlorine. Phosphates should be kept at a level
of 125ppb. Once levels climb too far above 125ppb, it becomes more difficult to maintain chlorine levels for proper sanitization and in some cases, clarity.
Adding phosphate remover will drop phosphate levels (appearing as a white substance, that can "poof" when you try to vacuum.) When phosphate levels are above 2500, it is not uncommon for the need of several doses of phosphate remover.
Phosphates come from a variety of different sources. Some of these sources include fertilizer, swimmer waste, detergents, decaying plant matter, dirt, and rain. We have found it to be a very popular issue if there has been an algae issue. Unfortunately, it can also come from our own tap water, especially well water.
Chloramines
Chloramines are the chlorine molecules strongly attracted to nitrogen and ammonia. When these
two hook up, they form chloramines, which are undesirable, foul smelling, space taking compounds that require shocking the water to get rid of. Chloramines block your free chlorine.
If chloramines are present, your free chlorine is no longer available to sanitize properly. When testing your pool water, you will notice little to no chlorine levels, yet there may be chlorine in the water. A non-chlorine shock will attack the chloramines, and "free" your chlorine to be available to sanitize again.
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